Introduction
India can be a daunting experience when you meet it for the first time – earlier participants on our tours have found this set of notes useful in preparing for the first ‘culture shock’. Of course, if you have any questions, we’ll be pleased to answer as best we can on the phone. We want to make sure that you have a fantastic experience travelling with us.
Airport Matters
Please note that the check in time for your outward flight from the UK will be a minimum of 2 hours before departure. With heightened security at airports we recommend 3 hours. All departure taxes both in the UK and India are included in your ticket. Your free baggage allowance will depend on the airline we’re using, but will typically comprise one piece of checked-in luggage of around 23kg, and one cabin bag. Please take care NOT to pack any sort of sharp implement in your cabin baggage, such as scissors, nail clippers, pen knives etc. These should go in your hold baggage. Indian airport security will also confiscate any loose batteries in your hand baggage – those already in cameras are fine, so remember to put your spares in hold baggage before any internal flights and your flight home. If you would like us to book you an airport hotel or airport car parking, please don’t hesitate to call us on +44 (0) 208 249 8943 or email tours@darjeelingtours.co.uk.
Passports and Visas
Your passport must be valid for at least six months beyond the return date of your holiday. As tourist visas are only valid for six months from the date of issue (not the date of departure) and requirements can change at short notice, we recommend that you apply for your visa twelve weeks before your travel date. We’ll be happy to supply details of the procedure for UK residents in Britain. If this does not cover your situation, we suggest that you contact your local Indian High Commission – they generally have visa application forms available on their website.
India – the Country
India has been a civilised country for centuries, and certainly the way that things happen there is different to the way that things happen in Britain. Once you are through the relatively restrained atmosphere of ‘Arrivals’ at Calcutta or Delhi airport, India will hit you straight between the eyes – most call it culture shock – and after a long arduous flight, you may not be at your best to deal with it. There will appear to be thousands of people milling about, most of whom seem to be trying to separate you from your money, either by begging or selling you something. Fortunately, we will have a guide and a bus available to take you to your hotel so that your introduction to the ‘real’ India can be at a more gentle pace, perhaps when you’ve recovered from the flight.
Language
India as a country has more than twenty different languages and perhaps one of the best services rendered by the British administration was the use of English as the lingua franca. Even today, when the Indian government is actively promoting Hindi as the national language, a Madrasi and a Bombayite (Mumbaiker) required to communicate, particularly in the business arena, would use English as the common language. English is the language used in colleges and universities, so if you need to find someone who speaks English, head for the nearest pharmacy or good book shop. The proprietor will almost certainly be able to assist! The guides and local escorts that we use for our group tours and independent travellers will all speak good English, although bear in mind that this may be accented.
Religion
As in Britain, Indians are free to follow whatever religion they wish, but you will find that Hindus and Muslims predominate. There are a vast number of temples, mosques and monasteries, most of which it is possible to visit, but you should research in each case what manners are expected. In almost all cases shoes should be removed, and when entering a Sikh temple one should not wear any leather and one’s head should be covered. For Christians, you will find plenty of Christian churches, mainly erected during the days of the British administration.
Beggars
Everyone needs to make up their own mind as to how to deal with beggars. One view is that it’s impossible to change life single-handed for these desperately poor people, and we are aware that begging is regarded as an occupation not necessarily at the bottom of the social heap. In many cases begging is organised, and has its own administration. It can be dealt with by hardening the heart against individual beggars, but making a donation to a charity when one leaves.
They will do far more with the money than individual recipients. It also has the advantage that, if you give to one beggar, another hundred immediately appear from nowhere. In the end the choice is yours! One way to salve your conscience will be to donate any surplus rupees left at the end of your holiday to the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway Society’s charity arm, Darjeeling Railway Community Support. Your tour manager will be happy to provide details.
Roads and traffic
Particularly in the cities, you will be amazed at the melee of traffic, exhibiting the chaos that is usually apparent from film reports. But (preferably from a safe distance) look more closely, and you will discover another aspect of India – its tolerance. There is not the same competitive spirit as you will find in London – everyone gives way with good grace, and accidents are fairly few. However don’t rely too much on a driver giving way to you as you cross the road – his brakes may not have received any maintenance in the past five years. Out in the country, always assume a heavy lorry is aiming for you and get out of the way. Most of the accidents we have seen in India have involved overloaded and under-maintained lorries.
Tipping
Tipping is regarded as a national hobby, and, on leaving a hotel, you will be amazed how many individuals have contributed to your stay. In restaurants, just like the West, a 10% tip is expected, and tips are expected for personal services rendered, such as station porters. Taxi and rickshaw drivers should not be tipped, as they will have overcharged you (as a Westerner) anyway. It really IS worth going with the flow to make things happen. If staying a few days in a hotel the service is notably better if you have a reputation as a tipper! Don’t view this as being greedy or grabbing but rather as an accepted way of life which applies as much to Indians as to tourists. The average waiter in a hotel earns about Rs3,000/- a month which amounts to just under £10 (NZ$21) a week. We are super rich by his standards! On our escorted group tours all of the major tour tips are covered for you, so you only need to deal with tips for optional services. In case of doubt, please ask your Tour Manager.
Women
The West is viewed as pretty decadent in Indian eyes, and western women cannot expect the same deference to be shown as at home. Whilst part of the group, there should not be too many problems, but on individual excursions, make sure that your dress is modest, with long sleeves and skirts, or trousers. Sleeveless shirts or shorts will be regarded as an open invitation for chatting up by the young Indian male, a practice known locally as “Eve teasing”.
Post
India has a good postal system that very largely works. However, for sending cards back home, it saves hassle to allow the hotel front desk to take care of this chore.
Telephone/Internet
The telephone system in India is almost up to international standards. Many hotels will allow you to make international calls direct from your room. However it is nearly always MUCH cheaper to make calls at public booths. Every Indian town and city has telephone shops/booths on almost every street. These have a prominent “STD/ISD/PCO” sign. You tell the attendant what number you require and they dial it for you. Many of the better ones have a digital meter that shows the cost of your call as you talk. You pay the attendant on completion of the call. Email is also readily available at most hotels or at internet cafes, and is a very cheap way to stay in contact with home. If you have a mobile phone and you have an international roaming agreement with your service provider you will find that agreements are now in place so that you can use your UK phone in many parts of India. However you will probably be wise to check what the charges will be as they are normally over £1 (NZ$2) a minute or more! Another alternative is to buy a readily available pre-paid SIM card for your mobile phone. Just make sure you ask for one that roams nationally and allows international calls. If you are planning to bring a laptop, most of the hotels we use have a wi-fi service where you’re charged by the hour or day – check with Reception at your hotel.
Electricity
Indian electricity comes at about 240 volts, 50 cycles a.c., but you will need an adapter to run your UK equipment. The actual achievement of 240 volts is not common: the appliances that work best are those marked for use anywhere between 110 and 240 volts. If you need to recharge cameras or phones, or power hairdryers or computers, then a two-pin round adaptor is required. In many areas, power cuts are endemic, and it is by no means uncommon to find the lights going out. As this is common, there is a well-practised remedy, usually involving candles. Taking a small torch can be a good idea.
Water
Water shortages can also create periods of no water. Given the importance of water to the local population, it is always good manners to be as frugal as possible with water (in spite of what the locals appear to do). In particular, Darjeeling has a persistent chronic water shortage, and water is brought in by road tanker on a daily basis – please be particularly frugal here! Make sure you crush your used water bottles to prevent them being re-filled with unsafe water. Never drink the tap water!
Laundry
Most hotels can arrange to have laundry done, so there is no need to take vast quantities of clothing. Indeed, we know several backpackers whose theory was “just two of everything – one being worn, one in the wash”. A bit extreme, but (just) workable. If you hand in your laundry in the morning, you’ll usually receive it in the evening. We wouldn’t recommend that you have delicate items laundered – easy care cottons are the best bet for comfort and durability.
Drugs
It would be amazing if no-one in the group were offered drugs – usually cannabis – at some stage during the tour. Very often, those doing the selling are working with the police, and arrest will instantly follow. Under no circumstances should you become involved with anyone selling drugs – Indian gaols are not comfortable for Indians, and certainly not for Westerners. The tour administration will be unable to assist anyone who purchases, transports or uses any illegal drug.
Toilets and Washing
Fear not! All the hotels you are staying at have rooms with private facilities of a standard you will be used to in your home country). It is only when on the move that loos become an issue. By and large there are few public toilets in India and where they exist they can be pretty grim BUT having said that most tourist sites such as the Taj Mahal, Red Fort etc DO have acceptable facilities that are normally reasonably clean and sometimes spotless (and an admission may be charged and/or a tip expected – worth keeping some change for this, typically Rs.5). Station toilets are very mixed. The majority are poor to grim whilst a few are quite acceptable. The seats on the Western toilets can be grubby so using the squat down variety is generally a better bet. There is almost never loo paper to be found on trains, stations and in public toilets as Indians wash themselves using a small water jug usually found in the loo. Once you have mastered the necessary contortions required to use these you have truly become an old “India Hand”! It’s a good idea to take a roll of your own loo paper and some hand wipes.
Security
The question of personal security is largely a matter of common sense. Our opinion is that India is no less safe than many Western countries, and it certainly feels safer walking round parts of any Indian city than some equivalent areas of Britain. However, you should be aware that organised crime exists in many tourist areas, and on tourist trains. In particular, the trains from Delhi to Agra have often been the target for crooks looking to pick up the odd unattended camera whilst the owner isn’t looking. One of the advantages of a sleeping bag (see Night Trains below) at night on a train, is that valuables can spend the night inside with you, rather than vulnerable elsewhere. Many people find that a money belt brings a degree of security for money, passports and air tickets.
One of the times when you (and your bags) are at most risk, is during the melee of trying to board a train: this is the time to keep your wits about you and a VERY close eye upon your bags. Those few Indians who make an illegal living from stealing visitors’ luggage know that this time gives them their best opportunity to steal bags or pick pockets. If you are unfortunate enough to lose your passport, it is a very wise precaution to have a photocopy of the ‘data’ page (inside the back cover in new passports), and a record of your Indian visa number. Likewise, a copy of your plane ticket is useful. The police force at street level is honourable and incorrupt and can be relied on to assist. Attempted bribes to the police are NOT recommended and can get you into deep trouble. If you have the misfortune to be robbed you MUST report it to the police and get a written report if you want to make an insurance claim afterwards.
Local transport
The first rule of local transport is don’t get into it until you have agreed the fare! You effectively have three options – the taxi, the autorickshaw and the cycle rickshaw.
Taxi: Taxis are generally black and yellow, and in theory are metered. Try counting the number of excuses you get for the meter not working! As fares increase fairly often, you will often find there is a conversion card to say that, if the meter says `150/-, you should pay `350/-. It is far more likely that you will have to negotiate the fare. Given the taxi drivers negotiating skills, you will generally lose, but, given their price levels, not a vast amount.
For long journeys (an hour’s ride or up), it is not uncommon to be asked to pay some cash up front so the driver can buy the petrol.
Autorickshaws: An autorickshaw or “tuc-tuc” is a motor scooter, with two wheels at the back, and a bubble style body to carry two adults in a fair degree of discomfort, but a large degree of cheapness. This is probably the cheapest and quickest way of getting about the cities. Again, they are supposed to have meters, but a working meter would probably get a line or two in the news section of the local paper. We have noticed an improvement in Delhi, where they now have electronic meters (but negotiation will still be the rule of the day in most cases!) Cycle rickshaw: The cycle rickshaw is the bicycle version of the above, and you have no chance of a meter. Not a good idea if you’re in a hurry, but a good way of seeing street life.
Train travel
Safety: Indian railways are regarded as a right-of-way, and it can make a pleasant change to walk off the end of a platform to get a good railway photograph. Do bear in mind the safety aspect – we know a lot of Indians walk along the railway lines, but we also know a lot of them die having been struck by trains. Nobody seems to mind, but it would very different if one of our party were to suffer an accident. By all means go for the photo, but do it safely. Walk beside rather than on the track, leaving room for the overhang, and look both ways before getting anywhere near a rail. There’s a lot of background noise all over India, and their electric trains are quiet!
Porters: For escorted tour groups we will organise and pay for porters at most railway stations. All stations have porters, easily identifiable in their red jackets. Typically you should expect to pay Rs70-Rs100 per bag depending on the location and the distance your bag is to be carried. Railway porters are honest and very reliable – their livelihood depends on it. For a few pence, it’s an indulgence to have someone carry your bag for you, and show you whereabouts on the platform your carriage will arrive.
Day trains: Most of the day trains will have convertible coaches - they will be the same as the overnight coaches, but the upper bunks may be folded away. Occasionally, there may be airline style seating (the Shatabdi from Delhi to Agra is an example of this). Having established your base, and arranged for someone to watch your luggage, take a wander down the train. Part of the joy of travelling by train in India is meeting Indians travelling by train, and exchanging opinions. If you remain steadfastly within our group at all times, you will miss out on one of the most rewarding parts of a visit to India.
Night trains: We generally travel in coaches known as “A.C. 2 Tier”. This means air-conditioned, with an upper and lower bunk at each position in what can best be described as dormitory accommodation. Each coach has two toilets at each end, a gangway running the full length of the coach, with bays off to one side, like compartments, with four bunks set across the train. On the other side of the gangway are two bunks, set parallel with the direction of travel. Sheets and blankets are supplied, and there is usually curtaining for privacy. The Indian Railways method of allocating seat berths is incomprehensible to mortal man and although we always “block book” our tour groups, there is no guarantee that we will all be berthed together. We will nevertheless endeavour to berth partners and friends together whenever possible. We don’t use First Class compartments for our groups as there are generally far fewer berths (24 vs. 46 in AC 2 Tier) which are usually fully booked. Although sheets and blankets are supplied, a sleeping bag (made out of a double sheet sewn up one side) is recommended for security reasons mentioned above (it’s a comfort knowing money and documents are safe beside you). Bear in mind that, for completing your ablutions on the train, you will need a small towel, and some drinking water for teeth-cleaning – and loo paper. Although it’s possible to use your duty-free allowance of Scotch for this purpose, it does seem to be a waste!
Refreshments
You need never starve or go thirsty in India or on Indian Railways. Every station has its tea (chai) and coffee sellers, plus stalls that cook their own snacks. Tea, coffee and soft drinks are safe, but look carefully before buying food. If it is a fried snack, and you see it emerge from the hot fat, it will probably be safe enough, but if the flies have been crawling round on it for three days, give it a miss. Chai is always made very milky and very sweet – if you want black tea, you will need to go to the refreshment room and order a pot of tea –the same applies to coffee. On longer train journeys, a bearer will take your order for railway meals, which are served in foil dishes. Whilst they are adequate to avoid starvation, they cannot be described as gourmet. For breakfast, Indians usually do an excellent job of preparing eggs (usually as an omelette), and it is easy to purchase fruit at stations. Whilst we can’t give comprehensive advice about general health and food matters some basic notes can be helpful.
Although drinking water is available on nearly all stations we recommend that you only drink bottled water. On certain services (e.g. the Rajdhani) meals and bottled water are provided. Otherwise, water costs around `15 (40cents) a litre, and it’s wise to drink plenty to avoid dehydration (the most common cause of feeling rotten). It’s also a good idea to check the seal around the bottle’s cap to make sure it hasn’t been re-filled with water from the local supply! Never drink tap water. Make sure you use bottled water for cleaning teeth as well.
Never have ice in drinks (unless you can be sure it is from specially treated water, which some hotels do) or ice creams, unless they are clearly factory packed.
Indian dishes such as curries are generally much safer (and nearly always much tastier) than Indian versions of Western cuisine. Particularly beware of undercooked chicken, shell fish and cold buffet food where refrigeration is poorly understood and regulated. However, we do use good hotels, and salads can generally be regarded as safe with hotel meals.
Peel all fruit and avoid water melons. Our favourites are bananas and wonderfully sweet loose-skinned oranges, although many varieties are available.
Street stall food can be fine if you consider a few basic points. Vegetarian items (such as samosas and fritters) are generally both safe and delicious if you see them freshly cooked or they look fresh and are covered up by the vendor. If they are selling well to the locals they are also likely to be safe! Meat items can be troublesome due to lack of refrigeration. Western bottled drinks such as Coke (Limca is a refreshing lemon drink and Thums Up, an Indian cola drink), bottled water, crisps and chocolate bars are freely available in streets and on railway platforms. They are factory packed and thus safe so you won’t starve or die of thirst if Indian snacks don’t appeal.
Tea (chai) and coffee is served on station platforms and is always freshly prepared and generally safe. HOWEVER, it is always served very milky and very sweet. If you like black tea/coffee with no sugar it is almost impossible to get outside hotels so take some tea or coffee bags and just pay for some boiling water. You’re unlikely to find any decent real coffee in India although there are now some cafes serving good cappuccinos and lattes – grab one when you can! If you are a vegetarian you are in paradise as India is THE country for Vegetarian food. If you have any other dietary requirements you should be very careful indeed. Indians are naturally eager to please, so if they don’t fully understand what you mean by a gluten Free diet (or similar), they will often appear to understand or tell you they do but NOT give you what you have ordered. Speak to your doctor before departure and monitor your own diet avoiding anything that even MIGHT contain what you must avoid! It is vital that you understand that the whole concept of allergies and special diets is VERY poorly understood in India and it is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY ALONE to look after yourself in this respect.
Climate and clothing
There is no requirement for formal clothes – comfortable and casual are the only rules. Weather forecasting is always a best estimate, but all things being equal, we should see very little in the way of rain. Down on the plains we should be able to expect warm days (in the 70’s), with cool evenings – a sweater or light jacket. However, in the hill stations, we can expect fresh days (in the 40’s or 50’s) with temperatures dipping to around freezing at night. Sweater AND jacket! Bear in mind that some of the hill stations are around 7,000 feet above sea level, and you may experience some degree of altitude sickness. Having said all that, just like the English climate, the Indian climate can be changeable, and it may be we get a wet day or two somewhere. You can even have fun wearing Indian style clothing, which of course suits the climate there.
Health and hygiene
It’s very important that you consider this section carefully! India is a third world country and whilst there are currently no compulsory inoculation requirements, you would be foolish not to take precautions. We are NOT qualified to give definitive advice so you should consult with your GP and explain where you are going. You are likely to need Typhoid, Tetanus, Hepatitis and other inoculations. You may also need to take Malaria precautions which involve starting a course a week before departure and continuing for four weeks after your return. Remember that a course of several inoculations may take several weeks as some cannot be given together. Carry a basic First Aid kit and supply of medicines. Virtually everything can be bought in India but you may not be able to get to a pharmacy. A medical kit may well include tablets for headaches, indigestion and stomach upsets, antihistamine tablets and a decongestant (some people are affected by the pollution in the cities), BUT talk to your doctor. A couple of travellers’ tips might be handy here! You may be unfortunate enough to get an attack of the “runs” at some time. Most people carry Imodium that is highly effective and generally stops you stone dead and is invaluable if toilets are remote or foul (like on stations!). However, as it stops you, rather than killing any infection, you can often feel lousy for days or even weeks afterwards. If toilets are readily available, let any minor runs go through you naturally or only use a gentle medication and you will recover much more quickly. Speak to a pharmacist or doctor about this.
BEWARE the fact that at many pharmacies in India they will sell you anything without prescription. It is very easy to land up taking unsuitable drugs (particularly antibiotics) that can make you even more ill. Where you are sold ANY medication insist they come with the instruction sheet and READ IT CAREFULLY before use. Otherwise your First Aid kit should include the normal range of plasters, bandages, antiseptic creams, and insect repellent. If you are particularly cautious you could consider taking a sealed needle/syringe kit that can be bought from chemists.
Ensure you have a full supply of any regular prescription drugs that you are taking on a day to day basis. Most people sleep badly on trains! Taking a mild sleeping tablet like ‘Nytol’ can be a blessing BUT again speak to a pharmacist or doctor and DON’T take our word for it in case you should not take it for some reasons.
Packing
We can’t say it often enough – travel light. It’s usually easier to acquire some small item forgotten than to take far too much. Clothing is good quality and cheap, and there will be plenty of souvenirs to buy to bring home. Use either a backpack or a soft barrel bag, a suitcase is very difficult to deal with on a train (as you will have to place it under the seats). Find a small padlock (combination are better than key – there are no keys to lose!) that can serve to stop the bag being opened – this will be a requirement for the use of railway left-luggage facilities, and another padlock and a length of light chain to lock the bag to the furniture on overnight trains. A penknife is invaluable for peeling fruit and cutting unwanted tags off cases. Bottled water is freely available everywhere for under 20p a litre. Of course, don’t pack the knife in hand baggage for the flight! Washbasinsoften don’t have plugs, so take one unless you prefer to wash under running water! Finally, wet-wipes and an alarm clock are useful. You will undoubtedly get into conversation with countless kids wherever you go in India. It is nice to take small gifts for them – maybe biros, maybe postcards of your home town, maybe badges or balloons. Now and again, the reaction that your small gift produces will astound you.
Money
The local currency is the Rupee (with a new symbol - `) which typically has an exchange rate of around `70 to the pound. Some of our tours do not include all lunches and dinners, but apart from that all your essential requirements are taken care of in the inclusive tour price. To allow for souvenirs and any extra sightseeing costs we recommend access to funds of around £200. Rupees are not routinely available outside India but can be obtained at some specialist foreign exchange outlets. Although technically foreigners are not supposed to bring Rupees into India, in practice a small amount of, say, `5,000 is fine and saves having to queue at the airport forex desk.
ATMs are plentiful and take most cards. Unlike ATMs in the UK they don’t take and hold your card to read the details – you simply have to insert and remove it before entering your PIN, so there’s no chance of your card getting “swallowed” by the machine. Consider taking more than one type of card – that way if one doesn’t work you’ve got an alternative. Also check the rates that your card issuer may charge for foreign transactions – this can be 2-3% in many cases. One frustrating aspect is that some ATMs are behind doors which need a card to open them, and, whilst your card will probably work the machine, it may not work the door! However, there’s often someone there who’ll let you in. Credit cards are acceptable at the hotels (but not for cash advances), and the more expensive shops, but are less likely to be accepted at smaller restaurants. They are definitely of no use with beggars, porters, taxi drivers and street vendors. The best advice is to take both your cash/credit cards AND travellers’ cheques – don’t just rely on your cards. Try to maintain a small stock of low-value notes (and coins) – no-one will ever have any change when you need it, and guess who will be the one who loses out! Also, bear in mind that a banknote with a torn edge will be difficult to spend. At all costs, avoid changing money on the black market. There are countless stories of travellers ending up with either forged notes, or being arrested for black market dealing. Take travellers cheques from a reputable bank denominated in pounds sterling. Using dollars means you end up paying two lots of exchange rate commissions. Most hotels will have LIMITED amounts of cash available to cash travellers’ cheques, and, whichever way you acquire rupees, it’s a time consuming business. Do it infrequently for substantial amounts and you’ll have more free time to enjoy yourself.
Hotels
We will probably have a good variety of hotels during the tour. In large cities, we will usually book somewhere with some character – we’re visiting India because it’s different, and there seems little point in using an international chain where the room is just the same as one in London or New York. In the resorts, we go for character and view, and in the small towns, we’ll use the best available. Sometimes we know the hotels we’re using many months out, but sometimes, particularly in the large cities, we may not know until a few weeks out from departure. Either way, you’ll get a full list of hotels prior to leaving.
Photography
In India it’s necessary to obtain permission to take photographs at or near the railway system as the railways are considered part of military transportation (as indeed they are!). However, we will arrange for permission and you need to do nothing more. Inevitably, there will be one or two places (Calcutta’s Howrah and Sealdah stations are usually on the list) where permission is refused – your guide will let you have details. There are some restrictions on the use of video cameras as the Indian authorities see video users as being commercial rather than leisure users. You will have to pay a fee (varying from a few pence to a few pounds) to take video cameras into some of the historic sights (e.g. the Taj Mahal and Red Fort in Agra).
It’s considered deeply rude to photograph people (particularly women) without asking first and in some cases this is objected to on religious grounds. This is in the context of being in a street, market place or temple. So do ask people first. It will normally be readily agreed to, but in touristy areas a consideration of Rs20/- will often be expected/demanded (see tipping above). Conversely village children will happily stand between you and your subject and be delighted to be photographed for nothing!
If you use a digital camera, memory cards are easy to acquire, but we do advise that you take plenty of capacity – it will inevitably be in the middle of nowhere that you run out of space! Whilst there is a reasonable spread of business centres where you may be able to download memory cards to CD’s, it would be unwise to depend upon it in any given location. If you’re using print film, take plenty.
Souvenirs
The large cities all have government emporia, which work on a fixed price system, as do most hotel shops. Pretty well everywhere else, you barter. Very largely, the price you pay depends on how much time you are willing to invest in the bargaining process. Try not to labour under the misapprehension that you can buy all sorts to bring back to Britain to sell at a profit –it doesn’t work! However, if you have the skill to recognise the difference between good and bad in silks, carpets and jewellery, you should get something you like at a very reasonable price. All handicrafts, including leather and wood carvings are good value. If a shop offers to ship the goods back to Britain for you, bear in mind that you won’t have a lot of bargaining power if it doesn’t arrive, unless you can get your credit card company involved. Also bear in mind you may have to pay import duties, VAT, customs clearance charges and local delivery when it does arrive in the UK, perhaps six months later. When in Agra, inlaid marble (just like the Taj Mahal) is a great temptation, but be aware that much of the cheaper inlaid stone of offer is not marble, but soapstone, much softer and easier to work. Inlaid soapstone coasters make excellent small gifts to bring back, but do not pay marble prices for them. The larger marble inlaid plates are expensive (but haggle), but will form a souvenir you will treasure for many years. To test, scrape a fingernail on the back: it shows on soapstone, not on marble. For marble, the commission system is alive and well. If your rickshaw driver takes you to a marble shop, he’ll collect 20% of what you spend. For cheap items, not important, but if you’re contemplating an expensive inlaid plate (and they really are lovely things to have), talk quietly to the manager, and say that you’ll buy it at 20% off if he brings it to the hotel later (i.e., you avoid the commission paid to your driver).
Guide Books
There is no advice we can give in these brief notes that is not better, and more comprehensively, covered in a good guide book. For the sake of £15 or £20 (NZ$30-40) do go out and get one. We think that the Lonely Planet Guide is amongst the best but everybody will recommend one they prefer!
Tourist attractions
India has now realised the attraction of its many historic places. You will often find a different price for Westerners and Indian nationals. For example, the Taj Mahal, and charges westerners 750 rupees admission, compared to just 20 rupees for Indian nationals. Security is usually tight at these venues - tripods, food, knives and tobacco are banned. Video cameras are only permitted for what one might term the ‘standard’ shot form the entrance gate – they cannot be taken far into the grounds, and are not permitted anywhere near the tomb. Other attractions may have similar restrictions.
General
India has always been a wonderful place for a holiday. Take an open mind with you, see the good as well as the bad, and bear in mind that the country, by and large, works well for its residents. If you take sensible precautions, you will have a great time. Whilst India can be a shock to the senses, there is probably nowhere in the world where so much poverty and wealth sit side by side. Indians themselves have a unique way of not ‘seeing’ what is staring them in the face. The story goes of the tourist commenting to an Indian friend that he is disgusted when he sees someone defecating in full view in the street.
‘No’ replies the Indian friend ‘it is YOU who is disgusting for watching him!’ You will get used to the notion that you are an observer of a country, and a way of life, that despite the superficial similarities, cannot and should not be compared to our own!
Don’t panic!
We’ve referred to robbery, illness and begging that may leave you wondering what you have let yourself in for. Don’t panic! All we have done is forewarn you of some of the pitfalls. Hopefully, and usually, everyone in the group will avoid most, if not all, the problems we have mentioned.
Above everything else you’ll come away with warm memories of many charming people, great kindness, fabulous history and stunning scenery. Nobody leaves India indifferent. Either you will never return or have a ‘love affair’ with it for life. For the vast majority it’s the latter! If you have any questions about this information, or there’s anything else you’d like to know that we haven’t covered, please don’t hesitate to give us a call.
Authors: Peter “Fuzz” Jordan, Clive Thompson and Sarah Thompson
Disclaimer: no liability can be taken for the advice given in this document and any inaccuracies are unintentional. All opinions expressed are the personal opinions of the authors. This document is the culmination of years of travel experience and any feedback is welcomed.
© 2011 Darjeeling Tours Limited Lime Tree Lodge Thorpe Road Mattersey
Doncaster DN10 5ED Tel: +44 208 249 8943 Email: tours@darjeelingtours.co.uk
Website: www.darjeelingtours.co.uk
